Choosing a Pumpkin

• Not all pumpkins are created equal, particularly when it comes to having a texture and flavor that works well in a pie. Sugar pumpkins, or pie or cooking pumpkins, are a common choice. Sugar pumpkins typically weight 4 to 8 pounds and have a sweeter flavor and smoother texture than the larger pumpkins commonly used for carving into lanterns.

  Other pie-worthy varieties include Jarrahdale pumpkins, which have a blue rind and vivid golden, finely textured, sweet flesh. Ugly on the outside, but light and sweet on the inside, the peanut pumpkin's flesh gives pies a fluffy, airy lightness. Cow pumpkins, which have a light dusty orange exterior and vivid orange interior, add a creamy texture and rich pumpkin flavor to pies.

Cutting the Pumpkin

• Cutting the pumpkin before you roast it is a bit easier than trying to wrangle a hot pumpkin to cut it in half. All you need is a large, sharp knife and a little muscle. Cut the pumpkin in half and then use your hands or a grapefruit spoon, which has a serrated edge, to scoop out the seeds. Reserve the seeds to make roasted pumpkin seeds.

  You can generally just roast the pumpkin halves. If the pumpkin is very large, you may need to cut it into quarters to fit it on your baking sheet. The pumpkin's cooking time varies depending on the size of the pieces.

Roasting Times

• Line the baking sheet with foil or parchment paper to prevent sticking and make cleanup fast and easy. Roast pumpkin halves with the cut side facing down for 60 to 90 minutes at 350 degrees Fahrenheit, or until you can pierce it with a fork. Don't be alarmed if the pumpkin is falling apart a bit; that just means that it's tender and ready for the next step. Alternatively, bake quartered pumpkins with the flesh side facing up for about 45 to 60 minutes to give a deeper roasted flavor to the pumpkin.

  For a shorter roasting time, microwave the pumpkin for approximately 10 minutes before cutting it in half. Pierce small holes all over the pumpkin using a sharp knife before microwaving it. Allow the pumpkin to cool enough to handle it before cutting it in half and roasting it at 350 F. It should only need approximately 30 to 45 minutes in the oven, depending on the size of the pumpkin.

Making Pumpkin Puree

• Once you've baked the pumpkin until it is tender, take it out of the oven and set it to cool so that you can handle the pumpkin without burning yourself. Then, use a large spoon to scoop the flesh away from the rind.

  While you can place the pumpkin flesh right into a blender or food processor and proceed making your pie, draining excess moisture from the fresh pumpkin helps make its texture more like thick canned pumpkin and minimize the likelihood of developing a soggy pie crust. To thicken your homemade puree, place it in a strainer or a sieve with a plate on top of it and a bowl beneath it to catch the liquid. Weigh the plate down and let the fresh pumpkin puree drain for approximately 30 minutes, or until it's thickened.