Tough to Tender

• The shoulder joint is well used in almost any animal, for strolling a pasture or simply standing up and laying down again. This means its muscles are relatively dense and tough, and liberally strewn with tendons and connective tissue. The shoulder bones and muscles are small and run in all directions, to provide the animal with a full range of motion. All these factors conspire to make it a relatively tough and troublesome cut to cook and carve, but that shouldn't deter a patient cook. When lovingly slow roasted or braised. it falls readily from the bone, and those same characteristics make a well-cooked shoulder memorable.

Long, Low and Slow

• Fast, high-temperature cooking works well for browning meats and making them savory, but it also causes the muscle proteins to contract and toughen. That's not a problem in a tender chop, but for tough shoulder cuts it's a no-no. Instead, cook lamb shoulder at low temperature for a long time. This serves a number of purposes. The bonds holding the dense muscle fibers together weaken over time, making them tenderer. The lamb's fat melts, oozing through the meat and protecting it from the oven's heat, and the tough connective tissues from the meat and bone turn into rich, moist natural gelatin. The bones also add flavor, and help keep the meat moist. The end result is a tender and richly flavored piece of lamb, fit to grace any table.

Slow-Roasted Shoulder

• One way to reach that end result is through slow roasting. It's a vague term, but can usually be applied to any roast that's cooked at a temperature of 300 degrees Fahrenheit or less. Many cooks now favor preparing tough cuts at 225 to 250 F, keeping the meat especially juicy even as it cooks to a fork-tender, well-done finish. The lamb should be well seasoned, then gently roasted for 3 to 4 hours -- or even longer -- until any exposed bones can be wiggled freely, and you can easily insert a fork to twist off a delicate morsel. To benefit from the savory flavors of browning, sear the shoulder at the last minute under your broiler.

Braised Shoulder

• If you plan to braise the shoulder in a casserole or your countertop slow cooker, brown it first by searing it in a hot skillet or Dutch oven. Arrange it in your casserole or cooker with onions, garlic, vegetables, herbs or other aromatic ingredients, then pour in enough broth, sauce or wine to come halfway up the lamb shoulder. Cover the pan and simmer the shoulder gently for 3 to 5 hours in your oven, or in your slow cooker for 3 to 5 hours on high, or 6 to 8 on low. When it's buttery-tender, remove the lamb and rest it for several minutes. Slide the meat from its bones and shred or slice it. The strained cooking juices, skimmed of their fat, provide a rich and flavorful sauce.