Direct and Indirect

• If you've ever eaten at a campfire, you're probably already familiar with the notion of direct and indirect heat. Your steaks and hot dogs go directly over the coals, where they'll quickly sear to a mouth-watering brown, but your enamel pot of "cowboy coffee" rests instead on a flat rock at the edge of the fire pit. The hot coals would boil the coffee and leave it harsh and bitter, but the indirect heat reaching it from the fire serves to heat it gently and produce a rich and flavorful brew. The same technique works for tough meats such as ribs, or bigger cuts such as pork shoulder.

Setting Up

• Depending on its size and sophistication, your gas grill might have two to four burner elements. Two-burner models are the simplest to set up. Just turn on one burner, and leave the other off. Three- and four-burner models give you the option of lighting the burner at one side and leaving the others off, or of lighting the burners at either side and leaving the middle off. Both methods work fine, so choose based on the space you need for your meats. Close the lid on your grill and adjust the burners until you achieve the correct temperature for slow cooking, usually 200 to 225 degrees Fahrenheit.

The Cooking Process

• Place your meat on the side of your grill that doesn't receive direct heat from the flames underneath. Fatty meats such as pork shoulder, ribs or goose benefit from having a tray underneath, to catch the fat that drips from them as they cook. If you want a smoky flavor in your meats, wrap a few pieces of hardwood in aluminum foil and place them on the hot side of your grill. The closed grill acts as a combination oven and smoker, trapping enough smoke and hot air to cook the meat over a period of several hours. You might need to turn or rotate large cuts at least once to ensure even cooking, or use a rotisserie attachment if you have one.

Some Basic Pointers

• If you're uncertain which cuts to grill quickly and which to use with indirect cooking, toughness is the key factor. Your supermarket usually labels those meats as best for marinating, stewing or braising, or for pot roast. Ask your butcher, if you're uncertain. Be prepared to settle in for a long cooking session. Spareribs can take up to six hours of slow cooking, and pulled pork from a large piece of pork shoulder may need to be slow-cooked for 14 to 18 hours. It's never a bad idea to have a second propane tank on hand, just in case. Don't take the meats off when they reach the standard food-safe temperature. Slow-cooked meats usually must be fork-tender, at an internal temperature of 190 to 205 F, before they're ready to serve.