Italian Institution

• While it's not a household word in the U.S., salmoriglio is one of the classic Italian sauces, especially in southern portions of the country. Hailing from Sicily, salmoriglio is a simple topping usually reserved for seafood. The freshness of the sauce comes from its handful of ingredients, and usually it relies on olive oil and lemon juice, as well as herbs and garlic. Sea salt or regular table salt is also integral to the sauce, which stems from an Italian word meaning salty or briny.

Whisked Wizardry

• Salmoriglio is thicker than other preparations made with oil and an acid, such as vinaigrette or marinade. The sauce owes its texture to vigorous whisking or heating in a double boiler, which results in a creamy emulsion. You may also achieve the proper texture by combining herbs and lemon juice in a food processor and slowly adding olive oil to the pulsing sauce. The point is to combine the ingredients well enough to achieve a creamy quality.

Vivid Variations

• Some versions incorporate more ingredients into the lemon juice and olive oil base. Mustard and butter can add extra thickness, along with distinct flavor notes. The herbs you choose also let you vary salmoriglio from one dinner to the next. Dried seasonings like red pepper flakes and oregano add depth, while fresh parsley and thyme provide a light summery touch. The amount of salt you use, as well as extras like anchovies and capers, also influences the level of brininess.

Tantalizing Traditions

• Salmoriglio is traditionally brushed over grilling fish such as swordfish, halibut, salmon or trout. Along with -- or instead of -- using it as a basting sauce, it is frequently spooned over just-grilled seafood dishes. Salmoriglio is also served as a savory spread for roast or grilled meats. In this case, the sauce is often made with less oil so that it can be spooned rather than poured over lamb or beef.