Simple Purpose

• A potato ricer is one of those kitchen implements that, once you've tried it, ousts all other utensils for the same purpose. Shaped like a large garlic press, the ricer works by closing two handles to force a plunger into a cylindrical or v-shaped chamber that has a perforated bottom. Drop cooked potatoes, peeled or not, into the chamber, and they will emerge as rice-shaped threads, ready for a flick of the whisk to create a smooth, light puree. A ricer purees the potatoes without breaking down the starches, which means the puree emerges fluffy rather than gummy, with a uniform texture and no lumps.

Choose Your Model

• Most commercial ricers have a chrome, steel or aluminum chamber, typically 3 to 4 inches across, which is large enough to accommodate whole or halved potatoes. Some models have interchangeable discs with different sized holes for fine or coarse mashing. Others have a v-shaped, angled chamber that expels potato from both sides. If you have limited strength in your hands, look for ergonomic handles with a textured covering to hold the ricer steady, and choose discs with larger holes for an easier press. America’s Test Kitchen found no discernible benefit for ricers with holes in the side of the cylinder, and recommends you look for a smooth plunger action and a ricer that is easy to dismantle and clean.

Using a Ricer

• Potatoes that aren’t thoroughly cooked through will stick in the cylinder, so boil the potatoes from cold, salted water for an even cook and drain them thoroughly in a colander to remove excess water. If you're using unpeeled potatoes, periodically clear the skins from the holes in the ricer. Because potatoes don’t respond well to handling, one of the reasons why a blender is disastrous in making mashed potatoes, the ricer forces air into the potato, yielding a light, smooth puree. For more textured potato, Fine Cooking recommends a conventional masher rather than a ricer. Add a stick of butter or a generous drizzle of cream to the puree for smooth, creamy potatoes, taking care to warm the dairy product first to make it easier for the potato to absorb.

Expert Tips

• Starchy potatoes make the best mashed potatoes, so choose Russet, Idaho or Yukon Gold over waxy potatoes, such as Red Bliss, which will turn gluey and gummy. Starchy potatoes also absorb butter or cream more readily. As well as an effective tool for pureeing carrot or turnip, The Kitchn notes that a potato ricer is also a versatile tool for squeezing the excess moisture out of cooked spinach. The Guardian adds that the ricer also serves as a useful utensil for making potato gnocchi, where light, fluffy mashed potato is mixed with flour.