Preparing the Neck Roast

1. Slice down the front of the neck from top to bottom and pull out the windpipe. You'll encounter some thin connective tissue along the way you'll need to slice through to pull the windpipe out cleanly.

2. Cut the neck meat from around the vertebrae with the tip of the fillet knife. Keep the blade against the bones and loosen the meat one vertebra at a time. Roll the vertebrae away from you as needed to reach the connective tissue attaching it to the meat.

3. Roll the neck up tightly lengthwise and truss it with a piece of butcher's twine at 2-inch intervals. If you aren't familiar with trussing, securely tie the neck crosswise with several pieces of twine at 2-inch intervals instead.

4. Mix a 5 percent brine in a large container and submerge the neck in it. A 5 percent brine comprises about 1/2 cup of kosher salt per gallon of water.

5. Brine the neck for 24 hours in the refrigerator.

Preparing the Smoker

1. Soak about 1 pound of mesquite chips in water for 30 minutes. If you're using mesquite chunks, use 1 to 2 pounds and let them sit out at room temperature to dry any surface moisture.

2. Take the venison out of the refrigerator about 1 hour before you start and rinse the brine from it. Pat the neck roast dry and let it sit at room temperature while you prepare the smoker.

3. Light a chimney starter of natural lump charcoal -- about 75 to 100 pieces -- and let it burn for about 15 to 20 minutes, or until you see a red glow from the center. Empty the charcoal in the center of the charcoal grate.

4. Add water until it reaches the water pan's fill line. Open all the vents on the smoker halfway.

5. Sprinkle about 1/2 cup of wood chips or 9 or 10 wood chunks on the charcoal in an even layer.

Smoking the Venison Roast

1. Insert an oven-safe meat thermometer in the venison roast. Place the venison roast on the smoker's food rack.

2. Smoke the venison for 30 minutes per pound, or about 3 1/2 to 5 hours for a 7- to 9-pound neck roast. Add 1/4 cup of wood chips or 3 or 4 wood chunks to the pile. Add charcoal as needed, or about 30 to 50 pieces every hour.

3. Check the temperature after smoking the venison for 30 minutes per pound. The thermometer should read about 160 degrees Fahrenheit. Take the venison out of the smoker and let it rest for at least 30 minutes.

4. Slice the neck roast across the grain when serving to make it easier to chew. Serve as soon as possible and store leftovers in an airtight container up to 2 days.