Styles of Cheesecake

• In the United States, cheesecake aficionados are familiar with two main varieties. The New York-style cheesecake is based on cream cheese. It has a baked custard filling on a crumb crust, and it's relatively dense. Italian-style cheesecakes have a baked filling based on ricotta cheese, and are somewhat lighter than the New York style. Bakeries in some areas specialize in cheesecakes from other traditions, such as the quark-based versions popular in central Europe or the fluffy, whipped Japanese style, but the basic recipes are very similar to the cream cheese and ricotta versions.

Cream in Baked Cheesecakes

• Cheesecakes with baked fillings, whether they use cream cheese, ricotta or another form of fresh cheese, follow a similar pattern. The filling combines the cheese with a small amount of heavy cream or sour cream for its richness and moisture, and a large quantity of eggs and egg yolks to provide the thickening power. It's poured into a well-greased springform pan and baked at 350 F or less. Some bakers place the pan in a water bath, to slow baking and protect the custard from becoming overcooked.

Substituting Milk

• The amount of cream or sour cream used in a cheesecake isn't very large. Recipes designed for a 9-inch pan typically call for one-quarter to one-third cup of cream in 3 cups or more of filling. That means milk can be substituted if needed, with only minimal impact on the cheesecake's eventual consistency. The filling won't taste quite as rich, and the proteins in the milk will give it a slightly firmer texture.

Other Substitutions

• If you're baking a cheesecake and find yourself without heavy cream, a few other ingredients could also be substituted. Half-and-half can be used in place of milk or cream, and gives a slightly richer result than milk. A mixture of milk and melted unsalted butter is also better than milk alone. If you have sweetened condensed milk on hand that makes an appropriate substitute, but you'll need to reduce the recipe's sugar by a quarter cup. Evaporated milk also works, but has a distinctively "cooked" flavor so it's best used in flavored cheesecakes, rather than plain.