Pork Tenderness Issues

• For more than two decades, changes in pork production have produced meat with much lower fat content than traditional pork. As of 1991, pork contained 16 percent less overall fat and 27 percent less saturated fat than before. With more lean tissue and less fat marbling, pork requires changes in handling and cooking to keep it from being dry and tough. Marinades, rubs and moist cooking methods all focus on potential toughness in pork. The question of how coffee functions in each of these roles remains unanswered with certainty.

Coffee as Marinade

• Acids and enzymes in fruit juices, vinegars, wines and some dairy products interact with protein fibers to soften them. The citric and acetic acids found in coffee are present in citrus and other fruits used as tenderizers. Coffee also contains small quantities of the tenderizing tannic acids found in tea. Food science evidence suggests, however, that interactions between food acids and meats result in protein fibers becoming mushy, not tender. Further, marinades penetrate only the 1/4 inch of fibers closest to the surface of a piece of meat, with dairy-based acid marinades producing the best penetration and tenderness. As a marinade ingredient, coffee can impart a distinctive, smoky taste to the surface of of a pork roast.The failure of a coffee marinade to tenderize pork or other kinds of meat lies more in the failings of marinades than specific coffee characteristics.

Coffee as a Rub

• Dry rubs usually contain herbs and spices, creating a tasty crust on the surface of meat as it cooks. Especially if the meat surface is quickly pan- or grill-browned, a rubbed roast can retain more juices than a slowly browned roast. Rub coffee on the meat as grounds, enabling it to contribute to the surface texture of the meat and add complex flavors to other seasonings. Including coffee grounds in a rub-mix for grill-roasted pork tenderloin, for example, adds a touch of earthy bitterness to the seasoning mix. Like marinades, rubs add flavor more than they tenderize.

Tenderness and Meat Cuts

• On pigs and other meat animals, tenderness is by and large a function of tissue location and fat content. Meat butchered from the legs is heavily muscled from walking, often with lower fat content than other parts of the body. Meat high on the leg at the hip and shoulder will be marbled with fat. Naturally tenderer cuts are located on the back, in the loin. The biggest changes in pork fat content are noticeable in the popular loin roast and chop cuts, which now have fat contents comparable to those of skinless chicken thighs and breasts. These naturally tender cuts now contain less fat marbling and are more prone to being toughened by dryness. Choosing higher-fat cuts, such as a butt roast, is one way to increase chances of tenderness. Adding fat and moisture to lower-fat roasts is another.

Choosing Tenderizing Cooking Methods

• Moist cooking methods enhance the tenderness of pork roasts, whatever the cut. Braising, or covered roasting in a liquid, lets tough connective tissues soften gradually and allows fat to penetrate and tenderize meat. Slow cooking with a liquid keeps meat protein fibers from toughening and keeps meat moist. Brown a loin roast to seal in meat juices, then braise it with apples, onions and a little coffee. Choose a fat-streaked pork butt roast to slow-cook for fork-tender garlic- and vinegar-accented pulled pork. Adding coffee to cooking liquid brings dark, complex flavors to a tender roast.