On Your Plate

• The tail of the monkfish produces four beautifully symmetrical fillets of firm, sweet-flavored flesh. Its flavor and appearance are the reason it's sometimes called "poor man's lobster," though, in truth, monkfish often costs more than the similarly spiny crustacean. Monkfish is firm enough to stand up to grilling and broiling, though it's more often pan-seared, poached or baked. The flesh is pale and mild, and can be matched with traditional fish sauces such as beurre blanc or with bolder alternatives such as fruit salsas. It's sustainably harvested along most of the East Coast, and classed as a "Good Alternative" by the Monterey Bay Aquarium's Seafood Watch program.