About Pistachios

• Pistachios are native to a broad swath of hot, arid land ranging from the Middle East through Central Asia. Iran and Turkey are still among the major producers, and they've become an important crop in California as well. Like cashews, a close relative, the nuts grow inside a small fruit. Traditionally the ripe fruits were harvested and dried before the nuts were removed, which left the shells streaked with red. The pink dye you'll still sometimes see on pistachio shells was intended to conceal the natural stain, giving them a more even and appealing color. Inside the shell, like many nuts, pistachios have a thin, papery husk.

The Husks

• The thin skin surrounding pistachios is much finer than the relatively papery husk on peanuts, or the thick and brown skin on coconuts or Brazil nuts. Although it's relatively high in tannins, there is little enough skin in a cup of pistachios that it has little impact in recipes. Removing the skin will emphasize the nuts' vivid color, so some cooks and bakers do it routinely. Whether you opt to blanch the pistachios in your gelato is a matter of personal preference.

Pistachio Gelato

• Most recipes for pistachio ice cream or gelato divide the nuts. The first portion of pistachios is ground or finely chopped, then steeped in the milk or cream you'll use to make the dessert. After 20 to 30 minutes of simmering, those nuts have infused most of their flavor into the milk. They can be left in for their texture or strained out for a smoother, finer finished product. The remaining nuts are chopped coarsely and added at the end, as a garnish. Leaving the skins on has little effect on the flavor of the gelato, but removing them gives it a cleaner color and more professional appearance.

Blanching the Pistachios

• If you opt to blanch the pistachios, it's a simple process. As with almonds or other nuts, you'll scald them in boiling or near-boiling water for a few minutes. Use a large pot, so the water won't stop boiling when you add the nuts. A 2-quart saucepan is an appropriate size for one cup of pistachios. Drain the nuts, then rub them between clean towels to remove the skins.