Getting Ready

• Start by sharpening your knife or having it sharpened. Use a santoku or chef's knife that fits your hand comfortably, without being too heavy. Place a damp cloth or rubber mat under your cutting board to keep it from shifting as you work -- damaging to the accuracy of your cuts, and potentially your fingers -- and peel a potato or two. Russets are easiest, because of their long, flat shape. Keep your potatoes in a bowl of cold water, so they won't brown, but dry each one carefully before you work with it. Wet hands make the knife slippery, and nothing good will come from that.

Get a Grip

• Before you make that first cut, make sure you're holding the knife properly. Place your thumb and bent forefinger on the sides of the blade, just where it meets the handle. Then, wrap the rest of your fingers around the handle itself. Grasping the knife in this position gives you better control of the blade's motion, and if the knife is well made, your hand will be at the point where it's best balanced. You'll make better cuts, and your hand and arm won't get tired as easily.

Driving a Stick

• To make the characteristic stick shape, begin by slicing away one side of your potato. Lay it flat on that side, then trim away each side and both ends. When you're done, you'll have a rectangular brick of potato. Now, cut the potato lengthwise into 1/4-inch slabs. If you have a bit left over, put it with the rest of your scraps. Then, turn the slabs onto their sides and cut each one into 1/4-inch strips. With practice, you can stack two, three or four slabs and cut them simultaneously. Finally, trim the ends to produce the standard 2-to 2 1/2-inch length.

A Tip or Two

• If your brain doesn't readily translate a mental 1/4-inch image into a properly sized piece of potato, you might find it handy to have a model at your disposal. Instead of a kitchen store, check a building-supplies outlet for 1/4-inch wooden doweling. The doweling is inexpensive, and you can probably wheedle a 2-inch scrap piece from the staff at little or no cost. With that as your visual key, it's easier to cut your potatoes to the right size. It takes a lot of practice, so have a plan in place for the pile of scrap pieces you'll generate as you work. They're good in soups, or can be quickly turned into mashed potatoes or hash browns.

Cheat

• If you find that you have difficulty mastering the basic knife skills needed, or if you face physical challenges, such as arthritis or poor eyesight, that doesn't mean you can't make perfect batonnets. Most kitchenware stores carry a wide range of mandolines, slicing tools consisting of a flat frame with interchangeable blades. With a 1/4-inch batonnet blade inserted into the frame, and a potato grasped firmly in the safety holder, anyone can quickly and easily turn out a large stack of perfectly cut potatoes. They'll only need a quick trim to bring them to a uniform length.