The Rehydration Process

• Fully cured salt cod has a tough, stiff leathery texture due to the absence of the moisture naturally present in fresh cod. Because the quality and freshness of fish begins to deteriorate as soon as they're brought onto the boats, the cod is sometimes filleted and salted as soon as it leaves the water. It is then subjected to a long drying period during which all the liquid in its tissues evaporates. Soaking the fish replenishes this liquid and dilutes the salt content, which diminishes even further the longer it is soaked and the more frequently the water is changed.

Boiling the Cod

• Boiling, or poaching, the salted cod removes the salt and rehydrates it. However, cooking weakens its flesh and causes it to fall apart. The resulting fish is best suited to recipes such as fish cakes, croquettes, stew, chowder or any other situation that calls for cooked flaked fish. To boil the salt from the cod, immerse the fish in a pan of water and bring it to a boil. Immediately reduce the heat to the lowest setting, as you don't want to overcook it. Allow it to poach for about 5 minutes, then remove it from the heat and sample a small piece. It it's still too salty, repeat the procedure, but keep the water at a barest simmer. When done, drain the fish, proceed with your recipe or refrigerate it until you are ready to use it.

Soaking the Cod

• Removing the salt from codfish by soaking it in cold water is the least invasive way of rehydrating it and making it once again fit to eat. Soaking gradually draws the salt from the fish, and the more often you change the water, the fresher it will taste. Soaking does not destroy or weaken the tissues, making the desalted fish as easy to work with as if it were fresh. Immerse the fish in enough cool water to cover and refrigerate it for at least 24 hours. Change the water 4 of 5 times during the process, and if it's still too salty for your tastes, refresh the water and refrigerate it for several more hours. When done, remove the fish from the liquid, pat it dry and prepare it as you would any other fresh fish or refrigerate until you are ready to use it.

Ways With Codfish

• After you've refreshed your salted cod, you're ready to proceed with a host of ways to prepare it. Coat it lightly with flour and a few seasonings and pan-fry it in a bit of butter or olive oil, or bake it over a bed of aromatic vegetables. Make fritters by dipping chunks of cod in batter and deep-frying them, braise the fish in a tomato-based sauce that's been enhanced with a splash of wine, or incorporate the cod into a pasta sauce made with fresh or canned plum tomatoes, butter and some chopped onion.