Pork Loin or Shoulder

• A boneless center-cut pork loin weighing 2 to 3 pounds and a piece of fresh pork belly weighing 5 to 6 pounds yield enough porchetta to serve about 8 people. For a larger gathering, a 15-pound pork shoulder will yield approximately 15 servings. As a general rule of thumb, plan on 1 pound of meat per person, or 1 1/2 pounds per person if you want leftover porchetta sandwiches for lunch the following day.

Whole Pig

• Small, completely deboned pigs were the traditional cuts used for porchetta in Italy, where it was a special-occasion dish served at wedding and christening celebrations. To make porchetta for a crowd, order a young pig that is 6 to 8 months old from your butcher. If you will be serving fewer guests, a deboned suckling weighing about 40 pounds will yield approximately 40 servings. Big or small, ask your butcher to do the deboning for you and thoroughly cook the pork to an internal temperature of 145 degrees.

Pork Belly Only

• Using only pork belly meat is somewhat heretical to traditional porchetta cooks, but it is an economical cut requiring little fuss to prepare. You simply season it, roll it into a cylindrical shape tied with twine and roast it. Ask your butcher for a fresh pork belly with the rib meat still attached. This cut weighs about 6 to 7 pounds.

Cook's Choice

• Whole pigs, the smaller loin and shoulder cuts and the somewhat avant-garde pork belly are all cooked the same way. Your choice depends on how many guest you will be feeding and how big your roasting pans and oven are. A whole pig weighing upwards of 200 pounds will be to be cooked outside in a pit or on a spit over a fire. Suckling pigs, pork belly and the loin and shoulder will fit most roasters and kitchen ovens.

Seasonings

• The traditional seasonings for porchetta are fennel or rosemary, black or red pepper, sage, thyme and garlic. Regional Italian recipes vary, and one area will use fennel but not rosemary, or sage instead of thyme. The seasoning blend is your choice. The key ingredient common to all regional variations is salt. Not only does it season the meat but it also dissolves a protein in the meat, helping the pork retain its moisture.