The Virtues of Metal

• Most baking pans are made of light- to medium-weight aluminum, though small numbers are made of steel, tin, copper or other metals. Aluminum is a superior medium for baking, because of its relatively light weight -- easy on the baker's arms -- and its ability to transfer heat rapidly and evenly. It's used in almost any kind of pan you might bake rolls in, from cake pans of every shape and size to sheet pans and cupcake pans. Some specialized pans use steel for its greater strength, while copper and tin are little-used in modern pans because of health concerns.

Baking Your Rolls

• Yeast doughs have an unfortunate tendency to stick to metal, so unless you have a sheet pan with a really good non-stick coating it's best to lightly oil or grease the surface of your pan, or use parchment paper to line it. These help prevent your rolls from sticking. Divide your dough into the correct number of individual portions, then knead and roll them into shape. Home recipes often provide some guidance on which pan to use, such as suggesting a 9-by-9-inch or 9-by-13-inch specimen. If you're using a sheet pan, allow room for the rolls to expand horizontally by one-third to one-half. Bake until the rolls are golden brown and no longer have a smell of raw dough.

The Effect of Color

• Occasionally you might find that your rolls are fully baked or even burnt well before the time specified in your recipe. Alternatively, they might be dark on top before they're done on the bottom, or vice versa. That's often the effect of the pans' color. Dark pans conduct the oven's heat much more effectively than light pans, so recipes written for light pans will tend to burn in a dark one. If you bake your rolls in or on a dark pan, be prepared to shorten your baking time or reduce the temperature slightly.

Non-Metallic Options

• Although metal pans are the most common option for cooking yeast rolls, most kitchens contain at least a few pans or baking dishes made of other materials. The most common include glass, ceramics and stoneware, which all have similar characteristics. Like dark pans, they tend to retain a lot of heat, and you'll have to be wary of your rolls becoming too brown on the bottom before they're fully baked. Place your rack in the top third of the oven if you're using this type of pan, and leave an empty sheet on the lower rack to block some of the heat. Another common material is silicone, which has the opposite problem. It's an insulator and will prevent your rolls from browning on the bottom.