The Musts

• Calabacitas cannot be prepared without the essential calabazas, or squash. Technically calabaza refers to a pumpkin or pumpkinlike squash, but traditional calabacitas use summer squash types such as zucchini or crookneck. Variations abound, but all versions also contain tomatoes, onion and garlic as a base. Lastly, all calabacita recipes contain cheese. The type, however, is left to personal preference and ranges from traditional Mexican Cotija or queso fresco to cheddar or Jack.

The Optionals

• The biggest variations in calabacitas come from a few optional ingredients, namely chilies, corn and crema Mexicana, or sour cream. Some versions that are more Tex-Mex influenced use all three; some use one or two; and Baja style may add corn or nothing at all. Herbs and spices are prominent, but vary depending on the recipe and personal taste. As a general rule, pick one spice -- either cilantro, oregano or cumin -- to be the main complement to the dish.

The Technique

• All recipes agree that chopped onion and garlic should be sauteed until golden brown in some oil. Think 1 onion and 2 garlic cloves per 4 cups of diced squash. Once caramelized, add the tomatoes and simmer until nice and saucy. Tomato ratios vary from 1/2 cup with the above ingredients if green chilies are in the mix, all the way up to 4 cups for a deeper red sauce, depending on how suffused with tomato flavor you want the finished dish to be. The key is creating a nice sauce that will be the base.

Putting It All Together

• Once the sauce is ready, add in the diced squash and other optional ingredients such as peppers, corn and chosen herbs. Bring the entire dish to a simmer and cook until the squash is tender, 8 to 10 minutes, stirring to prevent burning as necessary. Stir in crema Mexicana as desired; season with salt and pepper to taste and top with a handful of crumbled or shredded cheese. Allow some time for the cheese to warm through and melt before serving with tortillas to sop up the juices. Buen provecho!