Paneer

1. Heat the milk in a heavy-bottomed pot until it reaches between 195 and 200 degrees Fahrenheit, stirring frequently; if you don't have a thermometer, heat the milk until it foams on top. You need 1/2 gallon, or 1 part, milk to make 6 to 8 rasgulla.

2. Take the pot of the stove. Stir in 1/2 part lemon juice or white vinegar and a pinch of salt and let the milk coagulate for 10 minutes.

3. Strain the curds into a sieve lined with a couple layers of cheesecloth set over the sink. If you want to reserve the water -- which is packed with whey protein -- for a beverage, store it in the refrigerator for up to 24 hours.

4. Bring the cheesecloth together around the paneer and twist it to wring the water from it. Set the paneer aside.

White Rasgulla

1. Transfer the paneer to a lightly floured surface and knead it until smooth. Use only 1 teaspoon of flour for dusting the work surface for each batch of rasgulla.

2. Add a couple pinches, or about 1 teaspoon of flour, for every batch of paneer. Mash the flour into the paneer with the spatula to mix.

3. Add equal parts sugar and water to a heavy-bottomed pot; you need the sugar water about 2 inches deep. Add whole spices and flavorings -- rosewater and cardamom pods are traditional -- to the water to infuse the rasgulla with aroma while it simmers.

4. Bring the sugar water to a low simmer. Roll the paneer into 1- to 1/2-inch spheres, or about the size of meatballs. You want a smooth, crack-free surface on the rasgulla.

5. Lower the rasgulla gently into the simmering water and cover. Simmer the rasgulla for about 10 minutes; turn off the heat and let the rasgulla steam until puffed, about 10 more minutes.

6. Transfer the rasgulla to a serving dish or storage container and let them reach room temperature. Pour the sugar water over the rasgulla and chill them in the refrigerator for about 1 hour before serving.

Brown Rasgulla

1. Add equal parts sugar and water to a heavy-bottomed pot; you need about 1 1/2 cups of each per batch of dark rasgulla. Add whole spices and flavorings -- rosewater and cardamom pods are traditional -- to the water to infuse the rasgulla with aroma as it cooks.

2. Simmer the sugar water until it darkens, about 10 minutes, and set the heat to low.

3. Mix 1 part flour and 4 parts milk powder along with a scant pinch of baking soda in a mixing bowl using a whisk. Mix 1 part butter into the mix by hand until combined.

4. Add 1 part milk to the mix in two parts. Add half and mix it in by by hand to form a wet dough; allow 5 minutes for the mix to absorb it. Check the consistency; it should be slightly tacky, but not excessively sticky. Add the remaining milk if needed.

5. Roll the rasgulla into 1- to 1 1/2-inch spheres. Heat 1 to 1 1/2 inches of vegetable oil in a heavy-bottomed pan over medium heat until it reaches 350 F.

6. Lower the rasgulla in the oil using a slotted spoon. Fry the rasgulla until golden brown, about 3 or 4 minutes, and transfer them to a plate lined with paper towels.

7. Let the rasgulla cool to room temperature. Take the syrup off the stove. Place the rasgulla in the syrup and let them soak for 10 minutes before serving.