A Tricky Match

• Most fresh meats have relatively simple, uncomplicated flavors and are correspondingly easy to match with wines. Beef's boldness, pork's richness and lamb's bright and fresh flavor all offer easy and flexible wine matches, requiring little knowledge or experience on the cook's part. Organ meats such as liver can be more problematic, because of their unique flavors and textures. For example, mature beef liver is very strong and earthy, and demands a robust red as a partner at the table or in the skillet. However, lighter-flavored livers such as poultry livers, veal liver and young pork liver favor light reds, or dry and austere whites such as Chablis.

A Border Region

• The wines of Chablis are the most renowned of Burgundy's whites, but they stand apart from the other white wines of that region. Chablis is closer to the Champagne region than to the heart of Burgundy, and its signature wines -- based on the chardonnay grape -- are crisp and steely, with a strong mineral character from their soil. Oak is little used in a typical Chablis, so it will lack the buttery and toasty character that distinguishes, and often mars, heavily oaked chardonnays. The wines of Chablis are often paired with light-flavored liver by creative chefs, especially the livers of chickens, ducks and other poultry.

A Typical Method

• The mild flavor of chicken livers makes them a versatile partner for a range of side dishes, from the elegant potato preparations of France to Italy's risottos, polentas and creamy pasta dishes. Chablis is often used for these recipes, even in Italy, because its crisp, dry flavor is backed by steely strength rather than lush notes of tropical fruit common among many other whites. A typical preparation calls for the livers to be lightly floured, then sauteed in butter with a bit of chopped onion and parsley. Once the livers are browned, add a splash of Chablis and a half-cup or more of rich stock. When the sauce has reduced enough to thicken, the dish is ready.

Other Livers

• The pairing of Chablis with duck or chicken livers is well established, but the same basic technique can also be applied to other mild-tasting livers, such as veal, lamb or even young pork liver. Slice and devein the livers, keeping the slices at least 1/4 inch thick, and ideally up to 1/2 inch. Dredge them in flour, season them in salt and pepper and brown them quickly in your skillet. They'll toughen if cooked in the sauce, so remove them to a plate and keep them warm in your oven. Add your Chablis and stock, and simmer the sauce until it's nearly thick. Return the livers to your sauce and reheat them. This technique also works well with livers cut into bite-size pieces.