History of the Roll

• The exact date when the lobster roll emerged is a mystery. Elisabeth Townsend, author of "Lobster: A Global History," told the "Wall Street Journal" that lobster salad served in a hot dog bun showed up on the menu of a restaurant in Connecticut in the 1920s. "Bon Appetit" points out that other lobster roll fans are certain the dish didn't appear until the 1970s, in a restaurant in Wiscasset, Maine. The Wiscasset version featured a shucked 1-pound lobster atop a hot dog bun served with mayo or drawn butter on the side -- no onion reported.

Onion's Presence

• Whether or not the original lobster roll contained onions isn't known for certain -- after all, food historians can't even agree when and where the original lobster roll was served. Nowadays, you'll find lobster rolls made with and without onions, depending on where you visit. You might find chopped onion mixed right into the salad, which discourages some purists and delights others. Other restaurants serve crispy onion rings alongside the roll, rather than inside.

Onion's Controversy

• Onions' strong flavor can overwhelm the delicate flavor of the lobster meat. The traditional way to cook lobster for a lobster roll is in sea water, so you maintain the briney flavor of the meat. Too much onion will mask this. If you're getting a roll with the freshest meat, right off the coast, you don't want anything standing between it and your palate. Some lobster roll lovers may even be offended by the presence of a lettuce leaf on their bun because it interferes with the perfect marriage of bread and buttery meat.

More Delicate Possibilities

• If you're a fan of a light onion flavor, you could add scallions to your lobster roll. These green onions aren't as potent as yellow, white or red varieties, and they allow the taste of the lobster to still shine through. Another option is chives -- a sprinkle of this light, onion-y herb could enhance your lobster roll experience. When it comes down to it though, no one person defines what comprises the absolutely perfect lobster roll. The most satisfying one might be one you create yourself so that it appeals to your personal taste buds.