Rustic Is Relative

• The term "rustic" on a menu or recipe title doesn't have a very specific definition. Ideally it means that the cook is drawing on the classic traditions and ingredients of the countryside, combining them in authentic ways to emphasize the best and freshest flavors available. In less exalted circumstances, it might only convey that the cook was too unskilled or disinterested to make the dish look polished. To come up with a rustic Italian-influenced haddock dish of your own, or to assess the caliber of recipes from a cookbook or the Internet, take some time to review a few signature combinations.

Apulian or Sicilian Style

• In the south of Italy, on the island of Sicily or on the mainland in Apulia, the climate is semi-tropical. The local culinary style favors light-tasting preparations that aren't too heavy for the torrid climate, featuring warm weather ingredients such as olives and lemons. A rustic baked haddock dish in this style might be drizzled with olive oil and white wine vinegar, then served simply with some crusty bread and a garnish of green olives or lemon wedges.

Neapolitan Style

• Many of the first Italian-Americans came from Naples, and Neapolitan DNA runs through the Italian-American culinary tradition. The famous San Marzano tomatoes are grown near Naples, and the local cuisine draws heavily on them. To concoct a rustic haddock dish in the Neapolitan style, layer the fillets into your casserole with ingredients such as sauteed onions, garlic and cooked chickpeas. Cover the dish with coarsely chopped San Marzano tomatoes or other good-quality plum tomatoes, and bake it until the sauce bubbles and the fish is cooked.

Ligurian Style

• Some of the most important seafood centers in Italy, such as Venice and Genoa, don't lend themselves well to rustic baked fish dishes. In part that's because they're rich and sophisticated cities, and in part because they typically grill or fry their fresh fish. However, a typical fish dish from the region surrounding Genoa can easily be adapted to baking. Saute garlic, anchovies and parsley gently in olive oil, then add a splash of white wine and cook the mixture down. Add diced tomatoes and stew them together briefly, then pour the sauce mixture over your haddock and bake it until the fish is cooked, 15 to 20 minutes. Garnish it with black olives and capers, both signature ingredients of the region.