The Problem of Familiarity

• Most industries flourish by continually bringing new or improved products to market, enticing shoppers to try something different. That can be difficult in the meat industry, where the basic product changes relatively little over time. One way for producers to shake up their markets and bring added value to old cuts is by finding premium muscle groups in otherwise inexpensive pieces of beef. This is why familiar cuts such as the eye of round now compete for retail space with newer items such as the chuck eye.

The Eye of Round

• Round roasts come from the hip region of a steer, the same group of muscles that hog butchers reserve for making hams. They're large and lean muscles, with a fine grain that makes them excellent for slicing. The eye of round is a single muscle, the semitendinosus, found between the top and outside rounds. It forms a slightly flattened cylinder, 4 to 6 inches in diameter, with very little external fat. It's not especially tender, but works well when roasted and then sliced for the table or for sandwiches. Season it well or complement it with a rich gravy to compensate for its relatively mild beef flavor.

The Chuck Eye

• The chuck eye comes from the animal's front shoulder, from a group of muscles found under the shoulder blade. It's the flattened front end of a group of muscles that form the rib and loin sections elsewhere in the carcass. It's not as tender as those premium cuts, but it's well marbled and has a rich, beefy flavor. Most chuck cuts are tough and require slow cooking, but the chuck eye is tenderer and makes a superlative roast. It can also be sliced and used as grilling steaks. These are sometimes called "Denver cut" or "mock Delmonico," and they're much sought after by chefs looking for unique menu items.

Picking and Choosing

• Although local prices for the two cuts can vary, in general they offer similar value. Choosing between them largely comes down to your intended use. Chuck eye roasts are flavorful, beautifully marbled and relatively tender, so if you want a centerpiece for your festive dinner or weekend meal, it's a better choice. For diners watching their calories or saturated fat intake, a lean eye of round can be a better choice. It's also the pragmatic option if you plan to take one small meal from the roast and reserve the rest for sandwiches.