Basking In the Warmth

• Baking your salmon in the gentle, all-around heat of the oven is a fine method, equally suitable for individual portions, full fillets or even whole fish. The oven's warmth washes around the salmon thanks to the natural currents of hot air, bringing it gently to doneness without searing or rough handling. It's especially suitable for preparing salmon in quantity. Follow the traditional rule of baking your salmon approximately 10 minutes per inch of thickness, at 425 degrees Fahrenheit for fillet portions and steaks or 375 F for whole fish.

You Look Radiant

• Broiling is an altogether different affair, although it also takes place in your oven. Rather than the relatively gentle effect of hot air, broiling relies on the intense heat created by radiant infrared energy. Broiling usually takes just six to seven minutes to cook a salmon fillet perfectly, creating a deeply browned exterior with rich, savory flavors. Brushing the salmon lightly with oil can help prevent it becoming too chewy at the surface, though it isn't always necessary. Rely on dry seasonings for broiled salmon, because sweet glazes and sauces are prone to scorching under the broiler's intense impact.

Searing and Shaking

• Pan-searing in a hot skillet also works well for salmon, especially with steak and fillet portions. Use a moderately hot pan and a minimum of oil, because the salmon has plenty of its own fat which will render out as it cooks. Turn the pieces after three to four minutes, when they're well-browned, and cook them for another three to four minutes. Technically speaking, this is pan-frying; sauteing requires that the salmon be cut into small pieces that can be shaken in the hot pan as they cook. If you're going to saute or stir-fry the salmon, cut the pieces to a consistent size so they'll cook evenly and use a little more oil to prevent them sticking.

A Few Other Techniques

• Salmon is one of a relatively small number of fish robust enough to stand up to grilling. Oil the grill thoroughly before it's heated and oil the fish, to minimize the risk of it sticking. For a more sophisticated approach, poach the salmon in fish broth or water that's highly seasoned with spices, wine or good wine vinegar. This is a classic method, used for generations in high-end French cuisine. It can also be wrapped in parcels of parchment paper, along with fresh herbs or other seasonings, then baked in your oven. This technique, called cooking "en papillote," steams the salmon gently in its own juices.