Cut to the Chase

• Chickens are often carriers for potentially harmful bacteria, from salmonella and campylobacter to E. coli. Thawing one safely is best done in the refrigerator, because the chicken will remain at a food safe temperature from the beginning of the process to its end. Small birds such as Cornish hens can be thawed in a day or so, but large roasting chickens or stewing hens can take almost as long as a turkey. You can speed the process by defrosting them in a microwave or a large bowl of cold water, but that increases the risk of bacterial growth. Boiling the frozen bird instead cuts out this intermediate stage, and avoids food safety concerns.

Boiling Vs. Simmering

• Before you take that whole chicken out of the freezer, it's important to understand that boiling is a misnomer. Cooking your chicken at a full boil will cause its muscle fibers to contract, becoming dense and chewy. Unless you're partial to tough and leathery chicken, it should be cooked at a gentle simmer instead. A simmering pot can be 20 to 30 degrees Fahrenheit below the boiling point, with the water gently shimmering and moving rather than bubbling vigorously. This thaws the chicken and gently poaches it, helping the flesh become tender rather than chewy.

The Basic Procedure

• Remove the packaging from your bird, and rinse off any frost with cold running water. If there's a package of giblets tucked into the neck cavity, try to lever it out with a sturdy spoon or butter knife so the liver won't flavor your broth. Lower the bird into a large pot, and add enough cold water to cover it to a depth of at least an inch or two. Place the pot over medium heat and bring it to the verge of a boil, watching carefully as it reaches the correct heat. Turn down the pot so it stays at a simmer, then add salt and any other seasonings you consider appropriate.

What You Get

• Simmering your chicken thaws it relatively quickly because the hot water passes freely through the body cavity and warms the bones from inside. If you have an instant-read thermometer, check the chicken frequently after the first 30 to 40 minutes of cooking. When its internal temperature reaches 165 F in both the breast and thigh, it's done. Older, tougher birds can be stewed for hours until they're tender and easily shredded. This longer cooking process produces a richer, more flavorful broth.

What to Do With It

• Poached chicken is a very traditional dish in Europe, and vintage cookbooks offer a number of sauces and side dishes to go with your bird. Alternatively, let it cool for slicing into sandwiches or salads. Tough older birds can be diced after they're stewed, then used in chicken soups, stews or pies. They're also good when shredded for tacos and similar preparations. If you simmer some onions, celery, carrots and bay leaf with the bird, the resulting broth can be used to make soup or a sauce to go with your chicken.