What It Is

• Black steel cookware is made from a form of carbon steel -- lighter and stronger than cast iron but with similar cooking characteristics. It's subjected to very high temperatures in the manufacturing process, giving the steel a distinctive blue tinge, which is why it's sometimes called blue steel. The surface of the pan is porous and food can stick badly, so it must be seasoned with oil before it's used. The seasoning process turns the pan black, hence the name black steel. Food won't stick to a well-seasoned pan, but its surface can easily be damaged by improper use.

The Rules

• Black steel can withstand a great deal of heat, so it's often used in professional kitchens for pan-searing or sauteing at high temperatures that would damage a non-stick coating. It's also used for special-purpose cookware, such as crepe pans. In general, the rules for cooking on black steel are similar to those for cast iron. Avoid highly acidic foods and sauces, such as tomatoes, which can react with iron and steel and cause discoloration. Don't leave liquid sauces in the pan as this can degrade its protective layer of seasoning or even cause pitting in the pan. Once you're done, clean the pan promptly.

The Practical Details

• Your pan's seasoning is formed of cooked-on oil, and at least a small amount of fat is usually used when you're cooking in black steel. Heat the pan to an appropriate cooking temperature for your food, then pour in the oil. Sear chops, chicken breasts or fish fillets without moving them until the first side is well-browned; leave plenty of space between them so moisture can escape and evaporate. To saute small-cut meats and vegetables, add them to the pan in batches and keep tossing them so they cook on all sides. For crepes, brush the pan lightly with oil or butter, and then swirl the batter around the pan to make a thin layer. Turn them or let them cook fully on one side, as your recipe suggests.

Care and Cleaning

• Season your pan before its first use by oiling it and heating it to the smoke point. The extreme heat changes the oil's molecular structure, changing it into a polymer very similar to those used in modern non-stick coatings. Repeat the process at least three times before using the pan. After cooking in the pan, scour it thoroughly with hot water but not soap. Instead, use a non-abrasive cleanser such as baking soda to remove any stuck-on food. Professional chefs heat coarse salt in the pans, and use a small towel to scrub off any stubborn food debris with the hot salt. Re-season the pan periodically, as needed to maintain its surface.