Fresh vs. Dry

• Dried mushrooms can be stored longer than fresh mushrooms, which is a special boon for hard-to-find mushrooms or those with a short season, such as morels and porcini. Some mushrooms, such as shiitakes, can be used fresh or dried; the dried ones often have a concentrated flavor when reconstituted that the fresh ones lack. A few varieties of mushrooms, however, are best served fresh. Chanterelles and oyster mushrooms do not improve much when dried; neither do either the common white button mushrooms or the similar cremini and portobellos. If you're planning on serving mushrooms raw, such as in a salad, choose fresh mushrooms.

Common Types of Dried Mushrooms

• Porcini, also known as cepes and boletus mushrooms, have an earthy, almost meaty flavor and are used in Italian and French dishes such as mushroom risotto and beef bourguignon. Morel mushrooms have a more delicate, nutty flavor that works well with eggs, butter and cream, as well as asparagus and peas. Smoky shiitakes are the go-to mushroom for all Asian dishes and are complemented by soy sauce -- try them in all sorts of stir-fries. You will also find dried wood ear fungus in Asian markets. Sometimes known as cloud ear or tree ear mushrooms, they resemble ruffles of fabric and have a delicate woody character; try them in soups and stir-fries.

Converting Between Dried and Fresh

• If a recipe calls for fresh mushrooms but you wish to use dried, you can reconstitute the dried mushrooms and substitute at will. Three ounces of dried mushrooms before reconstitution is the equivalent of about one pound of fresh mushrooms.

Drying at Home

• To dry mushrooms, keep them in a cool, dry place with plenty of air circulation and let them shrivel and darken. Speed up the process by using your oven -- set it to 150 degrees, or the "warm" setting if your oven doesn't go that low. Arrange them on a dry baking sheet, and bake for 2 hours, flipping them once halfway through. You can also use a commercial dehydrator to dry your mushrooms, or simply leave them in a dry room or sheltered outdoor area in the sun, arranged on a tray or in a basket with plenty of space for air to circulate around them. Mushrooms are dry enough for storage when they are no longer pliable, but stiff and crumbly. Once dried, mushrooms will keep indefinitely. Store in a glass container and add a few peppercorns to repel insects.

Rehydrating Mushrooms

• Dried mushrooms can be thrown directly into a stew or braise or other moist, long-cooking dish. Most of the time, however, it will be a good idea to reconstitute the mushrooms before adding them to whatever dish you're cooking. Place the mushrooms in a small heat-proof bowl and add water or other liquid to cover. Using hot liquid will speed up your soaking time but room-temperature liquid will leave your mushrooms more flavorful. Use water, stock, black tea or white wine as your soaking liquid of choice. Let the mushrooms soak until they are pliable, about 30 minutes for a hot soak or 40 minutes for a room-temperature soak. You can save the soaking water and use it as a vegetable stock; if that's your plan, strain the liquid through a sieve, paper towel or coffee filter first.