Ham 101

• Hams are made from the hind leg of a hog, cured with salt and sugar, and sometimes smoked or dried as well. Old-school hams, like the "country hams" still popular in the South, are very salty and should be soaked or simmered before they are put on the table. Modern wet-cured hams are more perishable, but they are ready to cook without any advance preparation. A full ham is massive, often running to 20 pounds or more. They're usually cut into halves for sale, yielding a meatier butt portion and a leaner shank portion.

The Shank

• The shank end of the ham comes from the lower half of the leg, tapering toward the foot. The muscles here are used more than those in the butt, which makes them denser and leaner, but also richer in flavor and connective tissue. When the shank is cooked slowly, those connective tissues melt into natural gelatin, which gives the ham an unusually soft and rich texture. Slow-roasting can achieve that texture, but it's easier when the ham is simmered.

Simmering vs. Boiling

• Hams cooked in water are usually referred to as "boiled," but, in reality, they shouldn't be allowed to come to a boil. Boiling causes the proteins in the ham to shrink and contract, making it tough. Simmering at a temperature of approximately 180 to 190 degrees Fahrenheit cooks the ham just as effectively -- but without toughening the meat. You can improve the flavor of the ham, and the resulting broth, by adding aromatic ingredients such as onions and celery, diced carrots, bay leaves or peppercorns to the water.

Using the Ham and Broth

• The ham is cooked when it reaches an internal temperature of 145 F, but the shank portion benefits from a higher internal temperature of 165 F to help break down its connective tissues. You can carve and serve the ham as it is, or glaze it, allowing 15 to 20 minutes in the oven for the glaze to caramelize. Adding vegetables to the cooking water during the last 20 to 30 minutes of cooking time provides a full meal, with minimal cleanup necessary. You can use the broth as a base for soups and casseroles; it's especially good in traditional split-pea soup.