The Meat, the Pan and the Process

1. Select cuts of fish or meat that are less than 1/2 inch thick: chops, medallions, thinner cuts of steak or fish, shrimp or scallops. Cuts thicker than 1/2 inch require additional roasting or braising in the oven to ensure thorough cooking.

2. Choose a pan with a heavy bottom that retains heat, such as cast-iron or stainless steel. The pan should be large enough so that the contents don't overlap or ride up the edges, but not so large that more oil splatters than undercoats your food. Flat-bottomed pans allow even searing; grilling pans blacken only the contact ridges.

3. Drizzle the bottom of the pan with oil that has a high smoke point, such as extra light (not extra virgin) olive, safflower, sesame or corn oil. Coat the pan very, very lightly. Too much oil and you'll be frying rather than searing, and the oil will overwhelm the flavor of the meat.

4. Add the cutlets when the oil is very hot but not yet smoking. The meat should cook quickly, but not so quickly that the outside burns before the inside is cooked.

5. Flip the meat with a spatula or tongs when the crust no longer sticks to the bottom of the pan. Sear the other side the same way.

6. Serve the cutlets if the meat or fish is a thinner cut. Finish in the oven if the cut is thick. Remove and allow the meat to rest five minutes before serving for redistribution of the juices.