Tenderloin 101

• With any food animal, the toughest muscles are the ones that get used the most consistently. They become dense and chewy, with large amounts of connective tissue. Tenderloins are the opposite. They're tucked along the hog's spine on the underside of the loin, and simply provide support for the spine. That makes them the tenderest of pork cuts. They're also very lean, with little marbling and just a small quantity of surface fat and connective tissue to remove. Their tenderness and compact size make them ideal for quick cooking techniques.

Grilling and Grill Pans

• Grilling is a favored technique with pork tenderloins, in large part because it isn't necessary to add any fat to the lean meat. Grilling also produces intense browning on the surface of the pork, which adds deep and savory notes to its mild flavor. If the pork is glazed or sauced, the grill also improves the glaze's flavor by caramelizing its sugars. Grill pans have raised ridges, to simulate the effect of a regular grill. The ridges conduct heat directly to the pork and provide seared grill marks, while the remainder of the pan radiates a gentler heat to provide further cooking.

Pan-Grilling Tenderloins

• Pork tenderloins are about 2 inches in diameter at their thickest point, so pan-grilling one is no more challenging than grilling a thick steak. Marinate or season your tenderloins to your taste beforehand, then heat the grill pan over a medium-high burner until it shimmers and threatens to smoke. Spray the pan with pan spray or lightly oil the tenderloin, and place it on the grill. The tenderloin will need to cook for roughly 15 to 20 minutes, depending on its size, so cook it on four sides for four to five minutes per side. The tenderloin is done when the thickest portion reaches 145 degrees Fahrenheit when tested with an instant-read thermometer.

Medallions

• Whole pork tenderloins can be cooked and then sliced into medallions for serving, or you can slice the tenderloin before cooking. Preparing the tenderloin in medallion form has the advantage of being quicker, usually just seven to 10 minutes, depending how thick you've cut them. They'll also cook more evenly, as long as the medallions are cut to the same thickness. With full tenderloins, the thin ends are often overdone by the time the middle is cooked.

Tips

• On an outdoor grill, any excess sauce or marinade drips through the bars, but in a grill pan, it is trapped in the grooves and burns. Avoid using your sauce or glaze until the last few minutes of cooking, so it doesn't make a dark and sticky mess. For the most even cooking, buy whole tenderloins and trim off the narrow ends. For the most attractive appearance, use your grill pan to make the traditional cross-hatch markings on your tenderloin and then finish it in the oven instead of on the grill pan.