Pasta 101

• Noodles of various kinds are loved around the world, and in Italy alone -- one of the world's most dedicated noodle-eating countries -- there are hundreds of named pastas. Italian pasta falls into two broad categories -- hard dry noodles and fresh egg noodles. Neither is intrinsically better, they're just different. The dry varieties are made with just semolina flour and water, and extruded from a machine in different shapes. They dry to a hard and brittle texture, then are packaged for sale. Fresh egg pasta is usually made at home by hand, using softer flour and fresh eggs. It's usually cooked and eaten immediately.

Making Fresh Noodles

• If you've never made your own pasta before, preparing a batch of lasagna is a good excuse for making the effort. It's a simple process. Place a few cups of flour on a clean counter, make a well in the middle, and break in two or three eggs. Mix the dough from the center outward until it's taken up as much flour as it can, making a very stiff dough. Let it rest for 20 to 30 minutes, then roll it into thin sheets with your rolling pin and cut it to fit your lasagna pan. If you don't have that kind of time or energy, most supermarkets sell good-quality fresh pasta sheets.

Making the Lasagna

• Use the fresh noodles in your favorite lasagna, just as you would with cooked dry noodles. The sauce in most recipes contains enough liquid to cook the noodles completely as the lasagna bakes. If your sauce is especially dry and thick, add a 1/4 cup of water or tomato juice, just to be on the safe side. You can always bake the lasagna a little longer, if necessary, until any excess evaporates.

Tips

• If you're making your own fresh pasta for the lasagna, let it sit out for at least a half-hour after you've made it. It should still be soft but will develop a slightly leathery character as it rests. Leave the pasta in large sheets that fit your pan or slice it into broad strips. The strips allow sauce to bubble through, helping cook the pasta. If you like your top noodle to be soft, cover it with sauce before applying your final layer of cheese. If you like a crunchy crust, cover the top noodle directly with cheese. It will brown and crisp in the oven, giving a distinctly contrasting texture.