Roasting the Birds

1. Dry the quail or doves inside-and-out with a clean paper towel. Cut away all but the meaty first joint of each wing, or "drumette."

2. Heat a heavy skillet over a medium-high burner, and add 1/2 tablespoon of cooking oil. Sear the skin over the breasts and legs of each quail or dove, browning and lightly crisping it. This step is optional, but if you omit it, the skin won't crisp until after the birds' lean flesh is overcooked.

3. Preheat your oven to 450 degrees Fahrenheit. Season the birds inside-and-out with salt and pepper, or other seasonings as desired, and arrange them on a rack in a shallow roasting pan.

4. Roast the doves or quail for 10 to 12 minutes, until they're medium-rare when you make a test cut in the breast. Cover the birds loosely with foil and let them rest for 4 to 5 minutes before serving them.

Baked Dove or Quail

1. Trim away the wings from the quail or doves, leaving only the first joint of each wing if you wish. Cut each bird into halves with a chef's knife, then trim the backbone from each half.

2. Sear the skin side of each bird in a heavy skillet, if you wish. This is optional, but lends additional flavor.

3. Arrange the dove or quail halves in a single layer in a baking dish. Season them liberally with salt and pepper, and add aromatic ingredients such as onions or celery if you wish. Preheat your oven to 325 degrees Fahrenheit.

4. Cover the birds with your favorite cream-style sauce or a gravy made from chicken or game bird broth.

5. Bake the birds for 1 to 1 1/4 hours until they're tender. Serve the birds and sauce over a bed of rice or noodles or with your favorite potato dish.