Sauteing

1. Rinse the kidneys and pat them dry with a paper towel. Slice the kidneys in half and prick out the vein that runs through the middle using a paring knife.

2. Heat butter or oil in a pan over medium heat and add minced pungent ingredients. Ingredients with aggressive flavors and aromas, collectively referred to as pungents, include red chili peppers, garlic, shallots and ginger. You can use all or any of the pungents you like; chicken kidneys give you a lot of latitude when it comes to flavoring.

3. Add the kidneys to the pan and raise the heat to medium-high. Saute the kidneys until crisp on all sides and cooked through, about 1 minute. Fully cooked kidneys have no traces of pink inside.

4. Add a few tablespoons of acidic red wine and deglaze the pan, scraping the bottom of it quickly with a wooden spoon or scraper.

5. Take the pan off the heat and transfer the kidneys and pungents to a plate. Finish with freshly chopped herbs and serve immediately.

Deep-Frying

1. Rinse the kidneys under cool running water and slice them in half. Cut out the vein the center.

2. Marinate the kidneys in buttermilk for about 1 hour in the refrigerator. Set up the breading ingredients while the kidneys marinate.

3. Beat 1 or 2 eggs in a bowl and fill another bowl half-full of flour. Spread an even layer of panko breadcrumbs on a plate.

4. Take the kidneys out of the buttermilk and drain them in a colander. Dredge the kidneys in the flour, dip them in the beaten eggs then coat them on both sides with the panko. Set the breaded kidneys on a wire rack while you get the oil ready.

5. Pour 3 or 4 inches of frying oil in a heavy-bottomed pot and heat it on the stove over medium to medium-high heat until it reaches 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Use a candy thermometer or digital thermometer to check the oil temperature.

6. Place the kidneys in the oil using a slotted spoon. Deep-fry the kidneys until they float, about 3 or 4 minutes, then turn them over in the oil and fry for another 3 to 4 minutes, or until golden brown all over.

7. Transfer the kidneys from the oil to a plate lined with paper towels using a slotted spoon. Gently blot the top of the kidneys with a paper towel and serve immediately.

Roasting

1. Heat the oven to 350 F. Melt a few tablespoons of butter in a saucepan.

2. Rinse the kidneys and slice them in half, then cut out the vein running through the center. Pat the kidneys dry.

3. Coat the kidneys in the melted butter and place them in a shallow dish. Add pungents and aromatics, such as thinly sliced shallots and garlic, if desired. Drizzle oil on the pungents and aromatics, if using.

4. Season the kidneys to taste. Place the dish in the oven. Roast the kidneys for 5 minutes then turn them over and stir the vegetables, if applicable. Roast the kidneys until the butter caramelizes and develops a nutty aroma, about 5 more minutes. Slice a kidney open and check for doneness. Fully cooked kidneys have no traces of pink inside.