Dumplings and Dumplings

• What most Americans think of as an apple dumpling is actually a sort of small pie -- a sheet of pastry wrapped around an individual apple or a small mound of slices. This type of dumpling is a simple, home-style dessert, but can readily be adapted to more elegant presentations. Fruit can also be added to fluffy steamed dumplings, creating a very different type of dessert to serve over a sauce or stewed fruit. Filled dumplings, with thin dough wrapped around a fruit filling and then boiled or steamed, are an Eastern European specialty that can sometimes be found in the American Midwest.

Baked Dumplings

• In classic baked dumplings, pears can be substituted directly for your favorite apples. Soft-textured pears such as Bartlett, Forelle, Comice and Seckel are best if you're using quick-browning pie crust as your pastry, but you can use firmer, longer-cooking Bosc or russet pears with yeast doughs. Pears are generally sweeter than apples, so you might need to reduce the amount of sugar in your recipe. Peaches are a little more difficult to use in a dumpling, because of the quantity of juice they release. You can compensate by stirring cornstarch or instant-mixing flour into the recipe's sugar, or by precooking the peaches gently and then draining off the juices and thickening them. Spoon this sauce over the peaches, then encase them in the pastry.

Fluffy Dumplings

• Fluffy dumplings raised with baking powder or baking soda are most commonly served with soups and stews, but they can be transformed into a dessert by adding fruit. Sweeten your favorite fluffy dumpling or biscuit recipe with added sugar, and whisk your choice of warm spices into the dry ingredients. Stir in the diced pears or peaches, then drop the soft dough into a pot of simmering milk, fruit juice, sugar syrup, fruit-based sauce or stewed fruit. Cover the pot tightly with a lid, and steam the dumplings for 15 to 20 minutes over low heat without raising the lid. If your peaches are especially juicy, reduce the amount of liquid in your dough by 1 to 2 tablespoons.

Filled, Steamed Dumplings

• Filled fruit dumplings are less common in most parts of the country, though fruit perogies are well known and loved in areas with a strong Central or Eastern European heritage. Perogies only require a few minutes boiling, so the pears or peaches should be at least partially cooked before they're used. Heat the diced or thinly sliced fruit with a small amount of sugar to help bring out the natural juices. Strain the fruit and thicken the juices with flour or cornstarch, then add the fruit and chill the mixture. Fill the dough wrappers with up to 1 tablespoon of fruit and sauce, then seal them and simmer them until tender. Serve them with a splash of heavy cream and a sprinkling of sugar.