A Winning Combination

• Pure chocolate can be tricky stuff to work with. It must be melted at very low temperatures, to prevent scorching, and it only sets to a perfect sheen if it's worked at a very narrow and precise range of temperatures. Melting the chocolate into heavy cream -- making ganache -- turns it into a much more obliging workhorse. Ganache can be whipped and used as a filling or icing, poured warm over desserts as a glaze, or even used as centers for truffles. It also stores well, so making a large batch and using it over a period of days is a pragmatic option.

Gentle Warming

• The key to working with refrigerated ganache is bringing it very gently back to a working temperature. If you plan to whip the ganache, simply leaving it out at room temperature for a few hours will suffice. To use the ganache as a glaze, it must be returned to a liquid condition. It's best to heat the ganache gently over a pan of warm water, stirring it frequently, until it softens. The process is quicker if you chop or grate the ganache, so it can melt more readily. You can even soften small portions in the microwave, heating it in increments of 15 to 20 seconds. Stir frequently to avoid any overheated areas.

Making Centers

• Not all uses require that the ganache be reheated. One of the most alluring ways to use up your leftover ganache is by making truffles. Most ganache is soft enough to be scooped with a spoon even when refrigerated, or at most after a brief period of warming on the countertop. Roll the ganache into balls, then toss them in good-quality cocoa, for a traditional European-style truffle. Or dip them in melted chocolate, if you prefer. To infuse the truffles with additional flavor, gently melt the ganache first and stir in a splash of your favorite liqueur. Once the ganache has cooled and firmed again, scoop and form your truffles.

A Few Tips

• If you're using ganache as a cake glaze, place the cake on a wire rack over a sheet of parchment or wax paper. That way, you can save and reuse any ganache that drips from the cake. It might contain crumbs, so melt it and strain it before returning it to your refrigerator. Standard ganache can be kept at room temperature for a couple of days, but after that it tends to deteriorate and become grainy. Cover it tightly with plastic film, pressed directly to the surface of the ganache, and refrigerate it. The ganache will remain usable for up to two weeks, or can be frozen in airtight packaging for longer storage.