Choosing Wisely

• Slate baking stone selection should be based on size, thickness and texture. A thicker slab takes longer to heat up but holds up longer with use. Smoother surfaces give your finished product a smoother finish. Check your local listings for a slate contractor to get a piece custom cut for your oven, or simply use your local hardware store. When picking slate tiles, make sure that the product is unglazed and has never been treated with anything. Choose the thickest tiles you can find -- up to 1/2 inch -- for best results.

The Next Steps

• Slate is porous and absorbs soap or other chemicals, so scrub your chosen piece of slate and rinse it well with water only. Once dry, it's ready to go. No seasoning is necessary, but the stone needs to be slowly tempered up to temperature each time you use it.

Tempering the Stone

• Slate stones need to be brought up to temperature slowly so that they don't crack or pop during baking. Preheat the oven with the stone in it for best results, and never put the stone in an already-hot oven. If you are baking over an open flame such as a grill, light the grill, place the stone on the grate and close the lid to preheat for 20 minutes. Just before baking, brush the slate lightly with oil or sprinkle it with polenta to prevent sticking.

A Word About Moisture

• Slate stone is naturally layered and sheds and breaks apart with prolonged use. Extreme heat fluctuations and moisture speed up the process, so any moisture should be kept to a minimum while baking with slate. Avoid spritzing bread or using pans of water to create extra steam, and don't bake high-moisture dishes without removing the stones from the oven.