Making Salt

• There are many varieties of sea salt, but they all result from the basic process of evaporating salt water. Table salt, by contrast, is mined from dried lake beds, contains additives to prevent caking, and is often iodized for nutritional value. Kosher salt comes from either source, but contains no additives and is pressed into coarse flakes. Because of the production differences, sea salt granules generally have a hollow, pyramid shape, while table salt granules are dense cubes.

Salt in Baking

• Flavor is arguably the most important role that salt plays in baking. Salt enhances aromas in food, and suppresses the perception of bitterness. Most sea salts contain trace minerals that add nuances of flavor, but are usually unnoticeable when mixed into baked goods. Iodized salt, on the other hand, has a perceptibly harsh flavor. In breads, salt is also important to strengthen gluten structure. The minerals in sea salt can provide additional support for gluten development.

How to Choose

• Generic, fine sea salt works well for baking, and even dissolves more easily than table salt, thanks to its hollow structure. If you buy coarse sea salt, you can grind it with a mortar and pestle or a spice grinder to incorporate it more uniformly into the dough. Reserve the expensive, delicate sea salts, such as fleur de sel, for the finishing touch on top of cookies or pastries for a sophisticated accent.

Converting Recipes

• Because sea salts vary so much in size and shape, measure it by weight rather than by volume. If the weight is not specified in a recipe, bear in mind that it can take up to twice the volume of large, flaky salt to replace the saltiness of dense table salt. Many authors specify which salt they used in their recipes, either on their websites or in the opening pages of their cookbooks.