Instructions

1. Bring a pot of water to a boil and add the pork belly or pork leg. Boil the pork until fully cooked, or until no trace of pink remains, about 25 to 30 minutes. Skim the water while the pork boils.

2. Drain the pork and run cold water over it. Pat the pork dry and lightly sprinkle the fat with baking soda. Place the pork on a plate in the refrigerator, uncovered.

3. Chill the pork uncovered until cold throughout, about 30 minutes, then transfer it to the freezer to firm for 15 minutes. Take the pork out and slice it into 1/4-inch-thick slices.

4. Heat 3 or 4 tablespoons of peanut or vegetable oil in a saute pan or wok over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Add the pork and fry it until the fat renders and the meat crisps, about 2 or 3 minutes, then push it up the sides of the wok. If you're using a pan, set the pork aside on a plate.

5. Add a few tablespoons of bean paste or thick vegetable puree to the wok, if desired. You can use equal parts chili bean, sweet bean and fermented black-bean paste, or take twice-cooked pork in a Mediterranean direction by adding equal parts pureed eggplant, pureed peppers and tomato paste. You can also leave a paste out altogether.

6. Add minced pungents to the pan, if desired. Although not always found in Chinese twice-cooked pork, garlic or garlic and Thai chilis go well with pork fat.

7. Add soy sauce and sugar to the paste and mix well. Add a big handful of alliums to the pan and cook through. You can use spring onions, immature leeks, sliced onions, sliced shallots or ramps.

8. Return the pork to the mix and combine everything. Serve immediately.