Instructions

1. Remove the squab from the fridge and place it on a cutting board. Rinse the cavity and the outside of the squab with cool running water and pat it dry inside and out with paper towels.

2. Trim off any loose, hanging fat from the squab and discard it. Coat the squab with a thin layer of olive oil and season it inside the cavity and out with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper.

3. Insert fresh, whole herbs or an aromatic ingredient or two in the cavity, if desired. A couple of thyme, rosemary and sage sprigs will make both you and the squab happy.

4. Tie the legs together with kitchen twine. You don't have to do a full leg-body-wing trussing of the bird, just tie the legs together to make searing it easier and to prevent the herbs from falling out of the cavity.

5. Heat the oven to 425 degrees Fahrenheit. Heat a few tablespoons of fat in a cast iron skillet or stainless steel pan over medium-high heat for a few minutes, or until it shimmers in the light. You can use any fat, but only use whole butter if you use equal parts oil with it.

6. Place the squab in the pan breast side down. Sear the squab on all sides until it has a golden brown, burnished glow, about 2 minutes total. Grip the squab with tongs to rotate it in the pan.

7. Place the cast iron skillet on the middle rack of the oven, if using one. If using a stainless steel pan, transfer the squab to a shallow dish and place it on the middle rack of the oven. Pour off the fat in the pan and discard it later.

8. Roast the squab for about 15 minutes, basting it once with a spoon halfway through cooking. Remove the squab from the oven when the thigh is cooked in the thickest part, but still pink. Just make a small cut in the thigh to check it if you can't tell by looking.

9. Remove the squab from the skillet or dish and rest it on a plate if you want to make a simple pan gravy. Spoon off the fat if using a cast iron skillet and discard it later. If you used a baking dish, spoon off the fat and scrape the remaining drippings back into the stainless steel pan.

10. Place the skillet or pan over medium-high heat. Pour in about 2 tablespoons of white wine or stock and scrape the bottom with a wooden spoon to lift the stuck bits, or fond, from it.

11. Pour about 1 cup of stock or broth in the pan for each squab and bring it to a boil. Reduce the liquid by half and turn the heat off.

12. Stir enough room-temperature heavy cream to get a smooth consistency and taste. Adjust the seasoning as needed with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper.