A Basic Beef Rib Primer

• Even the largest slab of pork ribs is relatively small compared to the length and heft of beef ribs. A whole rack from the average steer would be ridiculously large for most purposes, so they're ordinarily cut into back ribs -- the ones that would normally be attached to your prime rib roast -- and short ribs from the chest section. Meat from the short rib area that doesn't actually include rib bones is sometimes sold as boneless beef ribs. This is less of an oxymoron than it seems, because it's the same cut except for the bones.

Tough and Tender

• Short ribs, bone-in and boneless, come from the section of the rib cage wedged between the tough brisket and plate portions of the steer. Like those cuts, they're filled with dense, tough muscles, stringy connective tissues and a liberal marbling of fat. The secret to making this leathery cut edible is long and gentle cooking, which dissolves the connective tissues, melts the fat and weakens the bonds that tie the muscle fibers together. Simmering the ribs in hot water is one way to do that, but it's not necessarily the best.

Boiling and Simmering

• No cut of meat should be cooked at a full rolling boil, which makes the muscle fibers contract and toughen. That's especially true of already-tough cuts such as boneless short ribs. Instead they should be cooked at a simmer, between 170 and 190 degrees Fahrenheit, which is hot enough to dissolve the connective tissues without toughening the muscles. Simmering the ribs also renders out much of the fat, reducing calories in the finished dish. Unfortunately, simmering also removes much of the flavor from the ribs, which makes it a less than desirable option.

Baking and Braising

• A better option is simply to season the ribs and cook them in your oven from start to finish. Arrange the strips of beef in a roasting pan or casserole dish and slow-roast them, covered or uncovered, for 4 to 5 hours at 250 F. Test them periodically, until you can easily slide a fork into the meat and twist off a morsel. Drain the ribs well and serve them, or brush them with a sauce or glaze and broil or grill them until they're caramelized. Alternatively, braise the ribs in a sauce or beef broth at 325 F for 3 to 4 hours. Any flavor that cooks out of the ribs infuses into the cooking liquid, where it becomes part of the sauce you serve with the ribs.