The Vampire's Picnic

• Admittedly, a sausage made of blood might sound like the sort of thing a vampire character on a TV comedy might bring to a picnic. The reality is more mundane. Blood is highly nutritious. In many cultures, it was traditionally cooked for invalids. Like an egg white, it contains enough protein to firm up nicely when it's cooked. There are many variations on the blood sausage theme. French boudin noir contains pork and pork fat, as well as the blood. Korean soon dae often includes rice or sweet potato noodles as filler, while oats are common in the "black puddings" that startle tourists at breakfast time in the U.K. Morcilla is broadly similar to these, but has its own distinctive character.

Spanish Morcilla

• Canonical versions of Spanish-style morcilla typically include pork fat with the blood, and sometimes pork shoulder as well. Most recipes include onions, and regional variations incorporate binding or flavoring ingredients such as rice, almonds or pine nuts. The spicing also varies by region, typically including warm spices such as cinnamon or nutmeg as well as richly flavored Spanish paprika. Wet versions of the sausage must be ladled into the casings through a funnel, while Morcilla with rice and other binding ingredients is sometimes firm enough to go through a conventional sausage stuffer.

Latin American Morcilla

• Variations on Morcilla are made throughout the Latin world -- from Puerto Rico through Central and South America. Like the versions made by their Spanish forebears, these regional forms of Morcilla vary. Some are made almost entirely with blood, while others include starchy fillers, pork fat or minced pork shoulder. One distinguishing characteristic is that Latin versions are typically spiced less than their Spanish equivalents, leaving the focus firmly on the rich flavor of the blood itself.

Finding and Using Morcilla

• If you live an an area with an active Latin community, that's probably the first place to look for Morcilla. Markets and delis may sell several brands, especially if they service customers from multiple home countries. If you're lucky, you might find butchers who make their own from scratch. Spanish Morcilla can be found in upscale delis and gourmet supermarkets, or ordered from online suppliers. Sections or links of Morcilla can be cooked whole, but they're typically sliced for frying and grilling so the surface can crisp. In Spain, Morcilla is often fried in olive oil, but it also makes a flavorful addition to soups or stews, rice or bean dishes.