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How to Build a Durable and Quality Beer Pong Table Top
Any ping pong table or sheet of plywood can be used as a makeshift beer pong table, but if you really want to impress guests and party goers consider using the following instructions as a guide to build a good looking and very durable table. This guide will illustrate how to build a table of 'official' dimensions of 24'' wide by 96'' long.
Things You'll Need
- Sheet of furniture grade plywood 4x8' in length and width and 5/8'' thick
- 24' of 5/8'' half round trim
- Table or circular saw
- Miter saw
- variable speed sander
- 150 and 220 grit sandpaper for sander
- 400 grit sanding sponge
- wood glue
- 1'' finishing nails
- Hammer
- wood stain
- Polyurethane
- 2'' and 3'' foam brushes
Instructions
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The first step is to select a quality sheet of plywood and cut it in half. For best results use a piece of furniture grade plywood (Oak, Poplar etc) with one side that shows few if any knots and no notches, scratches or other blemishes. Make a pencil mark down the center of the board longwise so that you have two halves each 24'' wide and 96'' long. If you are using a table saw cut the board right along your line and sand the cut edge lightly with 150 grit sandpaper. If you are using a circular saw use a sharpened blade and cut just to the outside of your line. Use 150 grit sandpaper and sand heavily to remove any saw lines until the edge of the board is even with the pencil line. Lightly sand all perimeter edges to remove splinters and other blemishes.
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Now that your board is cut to fit, sand the good surface with 220 grit sandpaper lightly but thoroughly. Vacuum or wipe off sawdust and check the surface for nicks, splinters, rough spots or other blemishes. It may take several passes to remove all rough spots. When you are sure that the surface is smooth, use a micro-fiber cloth to remove all dust. It may help to use a slightly damp cloth to remove the finest dust.
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Once all of the dust is removed you can stain the wood surface. For the table pictured I used a Cabot brand deep cherry stain purchased from Lowe's. Apply the first coat generously with a 3'' foam brush. Apply stain to a small area (no more than a few square feet) and allow the stain to set for a few seconds then wipe off the excess with a clean rag (old t-shirts will work just fine). Continue until you have a fully stained surface free of excess stain, brush or drip marks. Allow the table to dry for at least a few hours and apply a second coat. For best results you can 'rub in' the stain by dipping the tip of a rag into the stain and with a circular motion rub the surface of the table. It will take longer but it will give a much smoother finished look.
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Now that the table top is stained you have the option to build trim around it. You can forgo this step if you want, but the finished look it provides is well worth the effort. For the table pictured I used a 5/8'' half round trim purchased also at Lowe's. This trim strip is simply a half circle on one side with a flat end on the other that fit evenly with the edge of the plywood. Cut a 45 degree angle into a piece of trim with a miter saw such that the widest part of the trim is on the outside. Measure or hold it up to a side of the table top to mark the inside of the next cut. Cut all trim in this fashion so that it meets at the corners in 45 degree angles. It is best to paint or stain the trim before attaching it to the table top. In the table pictured I painted two coats of glossy black paint (Lowe's Valspar Brand) after the trim was cut but before it was installed. I used 1'' finishing nails and wood glue to attach it with a very tight bond.
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Now the table top should look great but it is still vulnerable to water marks and wear. To protect its surface and give it a mirrored finish you can give it several coats of polyurethane. Be sure not to shake the polyurethane before using as it will cause bubbles to form in your finish. For this project I used a gallon of basic polyurethane purchased at Wal-Mart. For the first coat, slowly pour a small puddle onto one end of the table. Using a 3'' foam brush gently spread the polyurethane over the table top. You may have to pour several times to cover the whole thing. Use a smaller foam brush to cover the trim. Be sure that the table is sitting on a very level surface and allow to dry overnight. The polyurethane will settle and smooth itself out for the most part during the drying process.
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The first coat of polyurethane acts as a sealant and will keep water from getting into wood of your table top. To give it a mirrored finish you will want to sand the table lightly with a 400 grit sanding sponge. You may notice many spots that are rough or look like bubbles or other defects. Continue sanding until the top appears to be smooth (it is ok if the top looks smudged and has white streak marks). Using a foam brush paint on a second coat of polyurethane. Make sure to cover the entire table and trim but do not pour on the polyurethane. The point is to cover the sand marks and flatten the surface. Allow to dry for at least several hours and repeat 3 to 4 more times. Each time you repeat the process you will notice fewer rough spots and blemishes and more of a mirrored surface. On the final coat paint very slowly and be sure to allow as few bubbles as possible. Allow it to dry for at least 48 hours before playing on it. After this you can abuse it as mush as you want but have a brand new looking table after 5 minutes and some windex.
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