Whiteness Varies With Variety

• Popcorn kernels vary in size according to variety. On the small end of the scale, the rice-like Japanese hulless has a pericarp so thin it appears transparent, and you can see the starch lying beneath. On the large end of the spectrum, regular movie-theater popcorn has a thick pericarp packed with orange carotene. In between are numerous heirloom varieties, such as Baby White, Baby Yellow, Ladyfinger, Little Indian and Baby Rice, whose color falls in between Japanese Hulless and regular popcorn. As a general guideline, if you want white, delicate popcorn, look for any variety with "baby" in its name.