Making the Grade

• Eggs are put through a rigid inspection process from the moment they are laid to when they are shipped off the packaging line. They are checked externally for shell defects, discolorations, shape and cracks. They are then held up to a light in a process called candling that allows inspectors to assess the clarity of the albumen, or white, and the shallowness of the air cell between the albumen and the shell. AA and A eggs have the shallowest air cells and the clearest albumens. Other characteristics that determine egg grade include the presence of small amounts of blood leftover from the formation period, which is harmless but could be a factor when making white cake batters or meringues.

Behavioral Issues

• Eggs are also routinely checked for how they behave outside the shell. The whites of grade AA eggs retain their shape in a pan, while those of grade A eggs might spread a little and appear a bit watery. Grade B egg whites are runny and hold little to no shape when released from the shell. While this is an important factor when selecting eggs for pan-frying, all three grades can be used in baking and preparing batters for cakes, muffins and other confections.

Size Matters

• Grading and sizing eggs are two entirely separate functions that have nothing to do with each other. Sizing, from jumbo to small, is done using the weight of a dozen eggs, which is why you may sometimes see an egg or two in a carton that seem smaller or larger than the rest. While some recipes call for a specific size of egg, most can be prepared using large eggs. You can substitute jumbo, extra-large or medium eggs in a 1-to-1 ratio for large eggs or two small eggs. Peewees, the smallest sized eggs, are generally distributed to commercial food processors or bakeries.

Egging It On

• Eggs perform several functions in baking and batters. They add texture as well as bind ingredients together, giving the finished product stability and structure. Eggs add moistness and flavor and in some recipes, help batters rise. In some cases, such as in gold layer or pound cakes, egg yolks provide the desired color, which is why such recipes often call for just the yolks and not the whites, which tend to lighten the deep yellow color. Beaten egg whites folded into batter help it rise, and pie crusts, breads and biscuits develop a glossy shine when brushed with beaten eggs.