Making Your Duxelles

• You'll need about a pound of mushrooms to make a basic batch of duxelles -- anything less can be troublesome -- but you can make more if you'd like to stock up your freezer. The classic version calls for gently cooking shallots in a bit of butter until they're translucent and golden. Add finely chopped mushrooms and cook them for 15 or 20 minutes. They'll begin to release their juices after just a few minutes, so keep stirring until the liquid evaporates and the shallots and mushrooms become a sticky paste. Add salt and pepper to taste, and a splash of wine or vermouth after the mushroom liquid has mostly evaporated.

Freezing Duxelles

• Like any other food, your duxelles should be frozen as soon as possible to maintain the best flavor and minimize the risk of foodborne illness. As soon as it's cool to the touch, portion the unprepossessing but flavorful paste into individual freezer bags. For larger portions, shape the paste into a log or bar on parchment paper and roll it in heavy-duty plastic film wrap. Place the packages inside of an outer bag to help prolong their storage life. The duxelles is best used within three or four months, so label and date the packages as you freeze them.

Using the Duxelles

• When you'd like to use the duxelles, thaw a package overnight in the refrigerator. You may thaw sealed packages under cold running water or -- if you'll use the mushrooms immediately -- in your microwave. Frozen duxelles can go directly into soups or sauces, where it will thaw as you cook. Add thawed duxelles to your favorite omelet or quiche, or use it to stuff pasta. The mixture is a potent flavoring in cream sauces, risotto or pilaf, and you can add a layer of duxelles to turn an ordinary lasagna into lasagna con funghi. Beef Wellington uses a layer of duxelles spread on top of the tenderloin, before it's wrapped in puff pastry.

Tweaking the Duxelles

• Making duxelles concentrates the flavor of ordinary button mushrooms, elevating them to an entirely different plane. Take them even further with a few tweaks. One obvious strategy is to add more flavorful mushrooms, such as cremini, portobello, shiitake or porcini, to the mixture. Add beef or veal broth to the pan as the mushrooms simmer for a more robust flavor, or use a hearty red wine instead of the traditional white. Fine-tune the duxelles to a specific dish by adding suitable herbs, such as thyme or fresh sage, or give the mixture an elegant finish with a few drops of truffle oil.