A Few Gravy Basics

• The most fundamental ingredient of a good gravy is the drippings or pan juices from a turkey, a roast, a tender braised pot roast or other piece of meat. Well-browned meats, or browned-on juices, develop richly savory flavors from complex chemical changes called Maillard reactions. You can stretch those flavors for a large batch of gravy by using prepared broth, either your own or a good-quality commercial brand. The gravy can be thickened with flour, cornstarch or potato starch, whichever you prefer. The three have slightly different characteristics, so they'll reheat differently.

Next-Day Gravy

• Flour is perhaps the most traditional thickener for gravy, either cooked with fat to make a roux or stirred first into cold water like cornstarch. It makes a hearty, opaque gravy with a rich texture, but when it's rested overnight it can thicken to a stodgy paste. It will loosen naturally as it reheats, but you might need to add a small quantity of water or broth to thin it to the right texture. Cornstarch makes a clean, translucent gravy, so it's mostly used with poultry. It thickens overnight, though less so than flour. Cornstarch loses thickening power as you stir and reheat it, so don't add liquid. Potato starch makes a hearty gravy, like flour, but doesn't thicken overnight.

The Safety Thing

• Warm gravy is an ideal breeding ground for bacteria, so it's important to follow all the usual food safety guidelines. Cool your gravy and get it into the refrigerator within two hours after the meal, ideally in a flat container so it can quickly reach a food safe refrigerator temperature of 40 degrees Fahrenheit or less. When you reheat your gravy, use an instant-read thermometer to ensure that it reaches a temperature of 165 F. If you heat it in a microwave, stir the gravy thoroughly and let it rest before checking the temperature. Microwaves heat unevenly and this allows time for the temperature to equalize.

Turning From Sin

• Diners often shun gravy as a source of added fat and calories, but it doesn't have to be that way. A well-made gravy can bring rich flavors to your meal at minimal dietary cost, if you approach it correctly. First, be sure to skim as much fat as possible from your drippings. If you have time, pour them into a narrow measuring cup and chill them in your freezer. The fat will gather at the top and congeal, making it easy to remove. Rather than making a traditional roux with butter and flour, use quick-mixing "instant" or "gravy" flour to thicken the liquid. It's as fast as cornstarch, makes a hearty gravy, and requires no added fat.