Instructions

1. Prepare fresh fish for the best results, but if applicable, thaw frozen fish before cooking it in a pan so it cooks quickly and evenly. Put it into the refrigerator a day ahead; or, seal it in leak-proof packaging and submerge it in a cold-water bath for about an hour, changing out the water for new, colder water every half hour.

2. Dry fillets or steaks completely with paper towels. If the surface is wet, it won't develop as crisp a crust; the crispy exterior is a desirable result of successful pan cooking, providing flavor and textural contrast with the softer inner flesh.

3. Season the fish to taste with salt, pepper and other herbs, spices and aromatics you'd like to use. Basil, dill, rosemary, sage, blackening seasonings, garlic, ginger and citrus fruit zest are just a few ingredients commonly used to simply flavor most types of fish.

4. Place a heavy-bottomed pan over moderately high heat. Wait for it get so hot that when you flick water into it, the droplets immediately sizzle and evaporate. Then, add enough cooking oil to coat the entire bottom of the pan. Let it heat until you can swirl it around as easily as water.

5. Put the fish into the center of the pan, skin-side down, if the skin's still on. Toss in garlic, onion, scallion or other aromatics, if you want, to impart more flavor. Do not move the fish at all, as moving it interferes with searing. Cook the first side of a 1-inch fillet or steak for about 3 minutes. During this time, spoon some of the oil over the top occasionally to encourage browning and even cooking.

6. Shake the pan by the handle gently; if the fish readily slides, it's time to turn it. Flip it carefully with a wide spatula, supporting the piece fully to keep it from breaking apart.

7. Cook the second side for about another 3 minutes, again refraining from moving it around in the pan. Spoon oil over the top occasionally as the fish cooks.

8. Remove the fish from the pan right away as soon as it becomes flaky and opaque through to the center of its thickest part -- just press into the middle of it with a fork to check. Handle it carefully with the spatula.