Clean it Up

• When you pick your head up from the butcher's shop, it'll need a bit of cleaning up before you smoke it. Most of the hog's bristles should have been removed, but you might still need to shave or burn a few off. Brining the head overnight is also a useful step. Clear space in your refrigerator, or sterilize a picnic cooler for the purpose with bleach and water. Make up a brine with salt, sugar and spices -- you'll probably need about 3 gallons to cover the head -- and soak it overnight in the refrigerator or a cooler topped up with ice. The salty water seasons the meat, and draws out blood and fluids from the head's many crevices.

Set Up Your Smoker

• The next day, set up your smoker. Electric smokers are easy. Fill the water pan, add a few hardwood chips for smoke, and set the thermostat for a temperature between 185 and 225 degrees Fahrenheit. If you're using a gas grill as your smoker, light the burners on one side only and use a few foil-wrapped pieces of hardwood for smoke. Set the temperature for 200 to 225 F, whichever is the lowest temperature you can maintain consistently. In a charcoal kettle or smoker, build a bed of coals and then rake them to one side. Adjust the vents to stabilize the temperature at 225 F, or lower if you can manage it.

Head To the 'Cue

• While your smoker is coming up to temperature, drain the head thoroughly and dry it with paper towels. Position the head inside your smoker or kettle. If you're using a grill or charcoal kettle, place it on the side away from the direct heat. Add a few chips of hardwood to your charcoal to generate smoke -- you'll already have it in the other types of smoker -- and then close the lid. Remember that too much wood smoke is worse than too little, giving the head a harsh flavor, so if you're uncertain you should err on the side of caution. The rich pork doesn't need much help, and you can always set out dipping sauces if necessary.

Patience Is a Virtue

• Depending on your cooking temperature and the size of the hog head, it can take 10 to 12 hours of slow-cooking in the smoker before your head is ready. You should be able to easily twist off a fragrant, flavorful morsel with either a fork or a pair of tongs, once it's done. Remove the head from your smoker and let it rest under a loose foil covering for 20 to 30 minutes, or keep it covered in a warm oven for up to two hours. Your butcher should have sawed through the skull, to make it easy to break apart. Break it into halves or serve it whole, as you wish, with soft rolls, side salads and your choice of sauces. If your butcher sawed the head completely in half, follow the same process but reduce your cooking time to approximately 8 hours.