Tempting Tempura

1. Remove the shell from the shrimp, if present, by slitting the shell down the back with a sharp knife. Pull the shell off by inserting your fingers between the shell and the flesh of the shrimp. Leave the tail segment of the shell on.

2. Take out the dark vein running down the back of the shrimp by inserting the tip of the knife under the vein and pulling it out. Rinse the shrimp under cold running water and pat dry.

3. Heat about 3 inches of cooking oil in a heavy saucepan until it reaches 360 degrees Fahrenheit.

4. Prepare the tempura batter per the package directions, or prepare your own by combining cake flour, egg yolks, ice water and ice cubes. A good ratio is 2 cups each cake flour and ice water to 2 egg yolks and an ice cube or two. With a knife or several chopsticks barely combine the ingredients. The tempura batter should still be lumpy with dry flour visible and streaks of the egg yolk.

5. Put a good handful of cake flour on a plate. Dredge the shrimp through the flour, then dip it into the tempura batter. Let the excess drip off.

6. Lower the shrimp into the hot oil. Cook until golden brown, about 3 minutes. Exactly how long depends on the size of the shrimp. Remove and serve immediately.

Gratiously Grilled

1. Put a layer of charcoal briquettes in the hibachi. Light the coals and let them burn down until the coals are covered with a gray ash. Brush the hibachi grate with cooking oil.

2. Combine rice vinegar, minced garlic, soy sauce and grated ginger for a marinade while you're waiting for the coals to reach the right temperature. Other choices include scallions, shallots and sake or rice wine.

3. Split the shell of the shrimp down the back but don't remove. Take out the black vein with a sharp knife. Rinse off the shrimp and pat dry. Put the shrimp in the marinade while the charcoal burns down to medium. You should only be able to hold your hand over the grate of the hibachi for 3 to 4 seconds before you have to remove it.

4. Place the shrimp on the grate and grill for 3 to 4 minutes, turning once.

Simply Stir-Fried

1. Remove the shells from the shrimp and the black vein. Rinse the shrimp under cold running water and pat dry. Dredge the shrimp in seasonings if you wish.

2. Pour a splash of oil into a wok. Place the wok over high heat. Wait until the oil shimmers.

3. Place the shrimp in the hot oil. Move the shrimp constantly by scooping the shrimp from the bottom of the wok to the sides of the wok, turning the shrimp so both sides are cooked. Remove the shrimp when they become bright pink and the flesh is opaque.