The Gravy Train

• Many recipes for Southern chicken-fried steak use country or sausage gravy made with the drippings left in the pan after frying the steak. The drippings contain bits of flour or breadcrumbs as well as butter or oil and meat juices. Add cooked sausage, spices, flour and liquid, such as cream, milk or broth, and stir while heating until thickened. Top the fried steak with a generous dollop of the savory sauce.

Yes, You Can-Can

• In a pinch, you can substitute cream of mushroom soup, or other cream-based soups, such as cream of chicken or cream of celery, for the pan drippings-based gravy. Because cream of mushroom soup is condensed, it is naturally thick. To top chicken-fried steak, warm the soup without diluting it and pour it over the meat. For a more authentic-tasting gravy, add crumbled sausage and a pinch of sage to the soup before heating. For lighter, thinner gravy, add up to 5 ounces of water, broth or milk to each can of soup.

By Any Other Name

• Whatever you call it, chicken-friend steak is a relatively simple recipe with three steps: breading, frying and topping. While most recipes use beef steak pounded thin to tenderize it, similar versions can be made with pounded chicken breast or tenderloins, pork or veal cutlets. Some recipes call for breading the meat in egg and flour while others call for dredging the steak in breadcrumbs or panko crumbs. The breaded meat is then fried in oil or lard to a golden brown and the excess grease drained off. Topping the hot, crispy meat with succulent white gravy transforms it into the classic comfort food.

Coming to the Light Side

• For a lighter, lower-fat version of country gravy, skip the sausage and add sauteed mushrooms and onions. Instead of cream or milk, use chicken or beef broth. To thicken, use cornstarch instead of a roux made with fat and flour.