Erecting the Frame

• Cedar or alderwood is often used as the spit for the salmon. The bark is removed from a slightly curved branch about 3 feet long, and the fish is fitted onto one end. As the fish is held flat, shorter branches cut into skewers are used to “weave” the fish in place. The spit is placed next to the fire, leaning at a 45- to 60-degree angle. Traditionally, the stake was placed into the ground or held in place by rocks as the salmon cooked.

Preparing the Salmon

• The salmon is filleted, butterflied and de-boned, while the skin is left on. A simple traditional recipe calls for mixing rock salt, brown sugar and pepper. Place the salmon, skin side down, into the mixture, and then spread the rest of the mixture over the other side of the fish. Cover, and place in the refrigerator for 2 hours. Rinse the fish, and then place it on the wood spit.

Cooking the Salmon

• To check that the fish is cooking at the proper temperature, place the back of your hand against it. If you can hold your hand in place for about 5 seconds, the temperature is correct. Adjust by pushing coals toward or away from the fish. Baste several times during the cooking process with a mixture of butter and lemon juice. After about 20 to 30 minutes, turn the salmon so that that the skin side is facing the heat. Cook for another 20 to 30 minutes. The skin is dry when the fish is cooked.

A Modern Method

• You can get the authentic flavor of traditional salmon bakes without digging a pit and skewering salmon fillets. Salmon placed on cedar or alder planks and cooked over a grill will provide the same smoky flavor. The planks are kiln-dried and made especially for cooking. There's even a type made for use in the oven.