Fluffy Millet

1. Measure your millet, and pour it into a heavy-bottomed saucepan with a tight-fitting lid. It will expand to 2 1/2 or 3 times its original volume, so allow plenty of space.

2. Heat the saucepan over a medium burner, swirling it continuously, until its color begins to deepen and it develops a nutty, fragrant aroma. This step is optional, but it makes the grain tastier and it will have a slightly firmer texture when cooked.

3. Add water or broth to the pot, using 2 parts water for every part of millet. This produces light, firm, fluffy grain that works well as a substitute for long-grain rice. Add an extra 1/4 cup to 1/2 cup for a softer, stickier texture reminiscent of short-grain and medium-grain rices.

4. Season the millet with salt and pepper or other flavorings to taste, then bring the pot to a boil. Turn it down immediately, cover the pot, and gently simmer the grain until it has absorbed all the moisture. This typically takes 15 to 20 minutes, depending whether you've used the larger or smaller quantity of water.

5. Remove your pot from the heat and let the millet rest for 5 to 10 minutes with the lid off, so it can cool slightly and the individual grains can firm up. Lightly fluff the millet with a fork and serve it warm, or cool and package it for later use.

Millet Polenta or Porridge

1. Measure your millet into a heavy-bottomed saucepan, and toast it over moderate heat -- if you wish -- until the grain is golden and aromatic.

2. Season the grain lightly with salt and other flavorings as desired, then pour in water, broth, or a combination of those or other liquids. You'll need 3 parts water to 1 part millet for a stiff, polenta-like result, but the millet can absorb 3 1/2 to 4 parts water for a smoother, breakfast-porridge texture.

3. Cook the grain for 20 to 30 minutes, stirring periodically at the beginning and then constantly, with the lid off, near the end. Otherwise, like polenta or other porridges, you'll run the risk of it sticking to the pot and possibly scorching.

4. Remove the pot from its burner once your millet has reached its desired texture. To eat it as breakfast porridge, sweeten it to taste and add a splash of milk. Stir in fresh herbs and grated cheese if you're serving it as a soft polenta.

5. Turn out your polenta onto an oiled or parchment-lined sheet pan, if you wish to serve it as grilled polenta. Smooth the cooked grain to an even thickness and flat surface, and let it cool completely. Once cooled, cut the millet into shapes or oblong slices, and grill or pan-fry them as you would with corn polenta.