From Dough

1. Form the bagels and let them rise for 30 minutes. Bring a water bath comprising 2 quarts of water and a pinch of baking soda to a gentle simmer.

2. Bring 3 or 4 inches of frying oil to 350 degrees Fahrenheit over medium heat on the stove. Tall pans with heavy bottoms and straight sides, such as cast-iron pots, Dutch ovens and stainless-steel frying pans, work best for deep frying. Check the oil temperature with a digital instant-read thermometer.

3. Lay the bagels on the water without touching each other and cook for 2 minutes. Turn the bagels over and cook 1 more minute. Only simmer as many bagels at one time as you can deep-fry at one time.

4. Lift a bagel from the water with a spider strainer and let it drain for several seconds. Blot as much water as you can from the surface then turn it over and repeat. If you see any pockets of water, pop them open with the tip of a paring knife. Lower the bagel into the oil and repeat.

5. Deep-fry the bagels until golden brown, or 3 to 4 minutes on each side. Remove the bagels from the oil with the strainer and drain them on paper towels. Blot the tops with a paper towel and serve as soon as you can.

From Baked

1. Mix together a basic batter comprising equal parts ice water and flour beaten with 1 egg per cup of flour.

2. Bring 3 or 4 inches of frying oil to 350 degrees Fahrenheit over medium heat on the stove in a tall pans with a heavy bottom. Check the oil temperature with a digital instant-read thermometer.

3. Slice the bagels in half. Dip the bagel halves in batter and let the excess drip off before laying them in the oil.

4. Deep-fry the bagels until golden brown, about 2 minutes, then drain on a paper towel. Blot the bagel with paper towels and serve immediately.